When I first moved to New York, in the early 90′s, one of the most magical spots in a city full of magical spots was Florent. I loved its in-the-middle-of-nowhere locale, its beautiful cross section of patrons–-best of all you could get a decent steake au poivre at 2 in the morning. When I first walked into M.Wells, I got a bit of that Florent magic. Ok, so it’s lacking in the tranny department, there are no views of cow carcasses or celebrities, and I suppose the overall seedy factor is missing, BUT it is located in an old chrome diner on a less-than-quaint corner of Long Island City. The highbrow/lowbrow menu inspires a giddy anticipation that permeates the bustling crowd of hungry guests. The owners, a husband and wife team from Quebec created an internationally-inspired menu that consists of tasty items like escargot and bone marrow, hotdog with sweet bacon chili and slaw, tourtieres studded with foie gras, and smoked fish bibimbop. The banana pie is perfect in a deceptively humble kinda way.
Tags: Florent, Long Island City, M. Wells